Triumph Tiger 800 - Converting to Tubeless Tyres
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In October 2015 I successfully converted my Tubed wheels to Tubeless - My biggest reservation about buying the XCx version of the Tiger 800 is
the fact it comes with tubed tyres.  I ride 8,000 miles a year and every year I am on a trip where one or more riders of KTM 950/990 or Honda Africa Twin
have a puncture.  All the KTM riders I know  carry 2 inner tubes, patches and tyre levers which is a major pain.  I have twice helped a friend install a new
front tube on the side of the road and it completely spoils the day. On the other hand punctures rarely effect those of us with tubeless tyres.  If it does
happen it is so easy to plug and reflate a tubeless tyre.  I promised myself that if I bought the Tiger 800 with spoked wheels I would attempt to convert
them to tubeless.   Stop Press - Still airtight after 15,000 miles. Here below are useful links to relevant articles on the WWW.

Adventure Rider Forum - Goop

Adventure Rider Forum  Options

Adventure Pulse site - Options
I purchased a tube of Goop Automotive Adhesive
from eBay and a pair of 8mm Tubeless Tyre valves.
£10 spent.
Having gone tubeless I want to monitor my Tyre pressures so I have
purchased a
Fobo Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS).  A
sensor is fitted to the valve on each wheel and they connect via
Bluetooth to a
Fobo App on my Samsung Galaxy phone.  I have
tested the system and it works perfectly which gives me confidence
that my tyres are holding pressure.  Fobo can be set to give off a
continuous 30 second alarm if a sensor detects a tyre falling below a
preset pressure   I use my phone or tablet as my GPS so all I have to
do is run Fobo in the background.  As I walk up to my bike I can check
the pressures and Fobo will monitor them on the move, perfect. Cost is
£64 plus shipping and tax from USA or £83 here in rip off Britain.  The
main downside was the FoBo app kept asking me to re-register whcih  
was a huge problem as I had no signal in the garage so I had to wheel
my Tiger up to the house, really annoying.
I took the wheels off and had the tyres removed.  I noticed that the rim tape on the
rear wheel had been installed off-centre and a section of spoke was rubbing the
inner tube!  Not good because the spoke nipples on the Tiger 800 have really sharp
When I converted my wheels my tiger had only done 1,000 miles so the spokes
and rims were clean, although some water had already penetrated the rear
wheel.  I cleaned both wheels thoroughly and sprayed with Brake Cleaner to
ensure everything was free from grease.  I applied Goop to each spoke nipple
4 spokes at a time.  Goop automotive is a clear, waterproof adhesive, it sets
semi hard and retaining some flexibility.  It is easy to apply, starts to set after 20
minutes, after 40 minutes the wheel can be rotated round without fear of the
Goop running so the next 4 spokes can be sealed.  It is easier to seal the rear
wheel as the spokes are in deep pockets, sealing the front wheel is more
difficult. The Picture below shows the goop freshly applied.  Goop shrinks as it
dries so after 3 hours I had to apply a second coat on some spokes.  Goop
should fully harden in 72 hours, I was going on holiday so I applied 1 or 2  thick
layers and left my wheels off the bike for 4 weeks.  At the same time I fitted the
8mm Tubeless Valves with plenty of Goop to seal them in place.

Why did I choose the Goop option?  I like the existing write-ups, it is a
waterproof adhesive not a sealant, being clear I could check there are no
trapped air bubbles, when set Goop grips tenaciously.  Once the tyre is
installed and inflated air pressure will force the Goop into the spoke wells, this
together with the strong adhesive strength should resit the centrifugal forces at
work.  A loose spoke could spoil the party however in all my years I have never
had a spoke work lose on a road bike.  
On some of the links people suggest a front wheel should not be run tubeless because if a tyre deflates the
front rim does not have an inner step to hold the tyre in place.  I tend to disagree, the whole point of tubeless
tyres is there rarely let go with a bang, they deflate in a more controlled manner than a tubed tyre, this
provides more warning to the rider to slow and stop.  I have raced Enduro's and I have seen tubed rear tyres
rapidly deflate and in spite of the moulded inner step the tyre comes off the rim and the inner tube wraps itself
round the rear axle locking the wheel.  I prefer to place my faith in a Tubeless front tyre.
While the wheels were off I
weighed everything.  Converting
to Tubeless has reduced
unsprung weight by 1.8kgs,  
cheaper than buying fancy
aftermarket rims.  I have read on
Tiger forums that wire wheels add
10kgs, what are these guys on?